During my trip to South America, one of the most emotional memories was the visit to La Guajira and the Wayuu tribe. I believe it is an unmissable stop in northern Colombia where you will get to know this indigenous tribe that inhabits the region.
The Journey to La Guajira of the Wayuu
It begins in Santa Marta, the “touristic” city closest to the desert, where several tour operators organize 2–3 day tours. The only alternative is to know someone local who can guide you, simply because there are many kilometers to cover in the desert where no roads exist.
The last inhabited center before entering the desert is Uribia. Therefore, this stop is practically mandatory for a break and to restock for the “tolls” I will explain shortly.
Living Under Wayuu “Laws”
Once you enter Wayuu territory, you’ll are subject by their “laws.” The only structures you’ll see are their rancherías (traditional settlements). While the government installed electricity poles here years ago, basic services are lacking. For the Wayuu, this is everyday life. For travelers, it’s a chance to unplug, enjoy the peace of the place, and connect with a community that welcomes visitors with open arms and will be extremely intrigued by you.
The “Tolls” in the Desert
As you bump along desert paths carved by 4x4s (because there is no real road—making it practically impossible for tourists to reach the rancherías on their own), children emerge from the ranches in the distance like ants running toward the vehicles to ask for a “toll,” sometimes setting up roadblocks with logs placed across the path to force passersby to leave something behind (I have seen the joy in receiving a sweet treat or a small bottle of water).
The metaphor is intentional: A particular aspect of this tribe is that they procreate “as much as possible” because they believe that the larger a family is, the stronger it is—a trait that proves important in case of wars between families. A war can even break out over an unpaid debt.
The “Palabrero”: Keeper of Dialogue
Each family has a “palabrero”—a mediator responsible for delivering news or requests to other clans, such as marriage proposals or compensation demands.
A Living Language
The Wayuu language, Wayuunaiki, is still spoken by around 400,000 indigenous people across Colombia and Venezuela, primarily in La Guajira and along the shores of Lake Maracaibo.
Did You Know?
Their signature dish is chivo frito (fried goat).
Wayuu Phrases I Learned 😊
- Hanas guattamaru = Good morning
- Hamaia = Hello
- Anayawatsu saa = Thank you
The Soundtrack of La Guajira
In the audio player below, you’ll hear the region’s ubiquitous soundtrack: vallenato music, blasting from every stereo or radio during your stay.
I hope I have piqued your curiosity and given you one more reason to visit Colombia’s northern coast. To delve deeper into the history of this ethnic group, I’m sharing the link to the Wikipedia page. If you have more information or details about this tribe, please write to me or leave a comment.
